Ben Cooks Everything

OK, OK, I promise a return to regular posting by the end of this week, I swear. But I must digress once more, for this week’s dining section features a profile of a personal hero of mine: Zach Brooks, he of Midtown Lunch. This is a site so powerful, so well curated and written, that it has me thinking midtown isn’t actually a wasteland at all; I eat really well here now that I know where to look. Since I started working in midtown last year, Brooks has led me to virtually all of my favorite spots: Hing Won, the street meat guys on 53rd and 6th, Margon, the Jamaican Dutchy cart, and the list goes on. On top of that, he settled the confusion over said halal cart (long story), and he also blogs for Serious Eats: New York. Show the man some love by surfing over to midtownlunch.com. The link to the article is below.

Midtown Lunch [website]
A Tour Guide Tames Lunch in Midtown [nytimes]

Sorry it’s been slow around here–I was away all last week in the culinary wonderland that is New Orleans. Below are a few of the pictures I took–if you’re interested, there are a bunch more on my flickr page, accessible with a beautiful stripped down interface here.

New Orleans photoset [ihardlyknowher]

So, this recipe was one of the most full flavored, complex, rich and satisfying ones I have made so far. But overall, I think they’re a little too fatty for my taste. I’d like to try the same recipe with a different cut of meat, maybe, because the combination of star anise, ginger, nam pla, carrots, potatoes, soy sauce, rice vinegar, and sugar did really magical things.

This recipe is a variation on Short Ribs Braised with Mustard and Potatoes, and I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to include the potatoes or not; I decided to use them after all because it seemed like it’d make the dish more substantial, so why not? It didn’t say to omit them outright, but the variation does sort of just ignore them. I was glad I included them, but I’m still not sure if I was supposed to.

Served it with the Roasted Red Pepper Vinaigrette from before.

Call this one Salty Grilled Shrimp, because that’s what I ended up with. The recipe itself is close to foolproof. The marinade (lemon juice, olive oil, paprika, cayenne, a mashed clove of garlic and a tablespoon of salt) could probably be used with any kind of meat or veggie, and it’s really fast.

However, I used a little less shrimp than Bittman recommends, which wouldn’t be a problem if I hadn’t used the entire tablespoon of salt. But I forgot to adjust, and the shrimp were so incredibly salty that my brother would only take seconds after rinsing his shrimp off. Which probably didn’t work anyway.

Basically, this recipe is golden, especially served with a little salad and some lemon wedges. It tastes like spring.

Also, there was grilled asparagus, which can also be done roasted or broiled, and are delicious no matter what. And in season! Don’t sleep on them. Check out the links below for up to date info on what’s at the Greenmarket.

Lucy’s Greenmarket Report
Greenmarket Report blog

Bittman’s on fire in this week’s Minimalist column, which does double duty as the Dining section’s cover story. The focus is the freezer, and Bittman thinks that you’re doing it wrong. And he has a point:

If I tried to sell you a new appliance that could help you save money, reduce food waste and get meals on the table faster, the only thing you’d ask would be “How much?”

The answer is “Nothing.” You already own it. For just as the stove comes with a hidden and often overlooked bonus — the broiler — so does the refrigerator: the freezer. Why not use it?

I know: you do. In that messy box you have some ice cubes, some stuff you bought frozen — a pizza? Lean Gourmet? peas? — and maybe, if you cook a lot, some stock or hastily stored leftovers. You also have a load of things you’ve already forgotten about and will eventually toss, even though you would have been guilt-struck if you had discarded them when they were fresh.

But if you conscientiously use the freezer in two ways, you’ll value it as never before. The first: take raw ingredients you have too much of — or whose life you simply wish to prolong — and freeze them. The second: take things you’ve already cooked — basics like stock, beans, grains and the like, or fully cooked dishes — and freeze them.

The thing is worth a read, full of helpful factoids (freezers are more efficient the more jam packed they are) and tips that range from the unexpected (cover pesto with a layer of olive oil to prevent freezer burn) to the obvious yet often overlooked (label your stuff, because fish stock looks like chicken stock looks like lemon juice once it’s frozen).

And! Don’t forget to check out the related post on Bittman’s blog Bitten, where the comments section is bursting with even more ideas for maximizing the use you get from your freezer. I like this one:

In cool months, I regularly make a big batch of steel cut oatmeal , then spread it on a cookie sheet, freeze, cut it into serving size rectangles, and take them to work where I microwave them for breakfast. Quick, easy, and much better than instant.

Leave your own ideas over there, or in the comments below.

Oh, and also worth a read: Harold McGee’s fascinating piece about asparagus.

Freeze That Thought [nytimes]
The Freezer (Comments) Section [Bitten blog]
Asparagus’ Breaking Point [nytimes]

18 Variations on Vinaigrette, another chart in How to Cook Everything that’s just completely loaded with potential. All of them are variations on the classic template: oil, acid (vinegar, lemon juice, what have you), salt, pepper, hopefully some shallot and maybe a little bit of garlic.

Bittman swears by emulsifying it all in the food processor, as the cleanup time still makes up for the whisking-by-hand time, not to mention the stress on your wrist.

So for Roasted Pepper Vinaigrette, first you roast a pepper (in this case, a red one). I do this on the burner, turning it with tongs until it’s black all over. The one you see here is about halfway there.

Then stick it in a plastic bag and seal it so that the pepper steams as it cools. You can then peel it with your fingers under running cold water, slice it open, remove the stem and seeds, and you’re ready to make the dressing.

Olive oil (something like 1/3 cup), good wine vinegar (I used sherry vinegar, around 3 tbs.) and the pepper are all that Bittman suggests, along with salt and pepper, of course. I added to this a bit of shallot, because hey, why not?

Let ‘er rip.

And here’s what you get: a delicious salad dressing that tastes so much better than even the best storebought (which, for the record, is Newman’s Own). If only it kept for longer, I’d make it by the gallon. Oh, well. Can’t win ’em all.

Fish tacos: I hear they’re transcendent, but impossible to find in New York. Pinche Tacqueria on Mott Street (they also have a place on Lafayette now) makes a pretty tasty one, but I have no West Coast reference point. Anyway, Bittman’s recipe for fish tacos is the central point for his “Weekday Mexican-Style Spread,” which also includes refried beans, guacamole, and salsa.

Now, Taco Night has always been a favorite in the Fishner house. My mom makes the most delicious white people tacos in the world: ground turkey, Old El Paso taco seasoning, diced tomatoes, cucumbers and grated cheese. They’re great. They are totally inauthentic and totally amazing. No lime wedges, no radish slices, and sure as hell no cilantro. I’ve never seen anyone else serve cucumbers with tacos, but you should try it sometime, it’s quite nice.

So I’m not ashamed to admit what drew me to this menu in How to Cook Everything: the salsa Bittman suggests, Mexican Cheese Salsa, has cucumbers! Feeling validated by this fact, we decided it was the perfect choice for dinner.

Guacamole, we’ve covered before (the menu actually suggests Crunchy Corn Guacamole, which is the same thing with 1/2 cup corn thrown in, but no corn was to be had).

The salsa is very simple: you’ve got diced tomatoes, cucumbers, salt, pepper, lime juice, onion, and minced chile (I used a jalapeno) along with 1/2 cup of queso fresco. This stuff is simple, really fresh tasting, and perfect for tacos (especially if you like them with cucumbers, which you probably will). It will only get better once tomato season arrives! I can’t wait for tomato season. But I digress.

Now, the fish taco recipe is very flexible; it’s listed as “Fish Tacos, Four Ways,” because you can poach the fish, as it’s suggested in the main recipe, but you can also grill, broil, or fry the fish. We opted for broiling, as it seemed the easiest: throw some olive oil, salt and pepper on the fish, stick it in the broiler until it’s just barely cooked through, and you’re good to go.

So that’s pretty much the fish tacos; serve them with lime wedges, that rare essential garnish. I don’t know about you, but I just need some extra lime juice to squeeze down on these guys.

Meanwhile, the refried beans, something that I did not expect to taste as good as it did. You take 3-4 cups of beans and mash them in some hot fat; whether it’s lard, butter, or neutral oil is up to you (we opted for neutral oil, and it was still delicious). Then you add some onion, cumin, and cayenne (we were out of cayenne, and so we used some chili powder instead which worked pretty damn well) and let it cook until the onions are soft. There is room for lots of interpretation on this one. Finally, just add some of the bean liquid to thin it out to the consistency you like. Delicious.

This was definitely one of the top five meals since the project began. Spring is here, and this all tasted like it. Are you all siked? I am.

So, my mom’s been wanting to make pizza for a long time now. The project seemed the perfect excuse, not that you need one: all things considered, it’s a simple process and it yields great results even if you don’t have a pizza stone, which *gasp* we do not. And it’s really fun. And you can’t argue with this:

So you take flour, cornmeal (optional, but makes the crust crispier), yeast, and salt, and put them in the food processor.

Turn it on, and add some water and olive oil through the feed tube. It will form a ball within about thirty seconds; if it doesn’t add some more water. What you end up with looks like this:

Put it on the floured counter. Knead it a little bit.

Put it in a bowl, cover it, and let it rise for 1-2 hours. Sounds like a lot of downtime, but this is when we threw together our toppings. Each batch of dough makes two pizzas (or one huge one, I guess). On one we did just some caramelized onions and balsamic vinegar. The other, tomato sauce, mozzarella, mushrooms and turkey sausage (from DiPaola Farms at the Greenmarket–the best turkey sausage I’ve ever tasted). So, we caramelized some onions, over fairly low heat, for a pretty long time til they were nice and brown and sweet and delicious. Did pretty much the same thing with the mushrooms, which cooked faster. Browned the sausage (crumbled out of its casing), and threw together a batch of Fast Tomato Sauce.

And by then, the pizza dough was ready.

We stretched and rolled it out so it was as thin as we could get it, then laid it out on the baking sheets and got to topping. For the white pie we mixed a bit of the balsamic vinegar with the onions and just spread them out on top. For the other pie, I spread out a pretty thin layer of sauce, then the cheese slices, then scattered about the sausage and mushrooms. Sprinkled some grated parmesan on top of that, because why not, and our pies were good to go.

Bittman says that they need to bake for 6-12 minutes on 500 degrees. Ours took more like 20 minutes, but maybe that’s because we like a nice crispy crust. Here’s the finished white pie:

This one is definitely going into heavy rotation; let me know if you ever want to have a pizza party and I’m so there.

So, this one is sort of an approximation. Grilled Octupus, something I definitely still mean to try, involves simmering the cephalopod for about an hour until it’s “nearly tender.” Then you grill it up, with a little bit of olive oil and lemon juice just till it’s a bit crisp. That’s it.

I had squid in the freezer (how awesome is the top hat-wearing squid on this package?), so I used that instead. Basically, I cut out the simmering and went straight to the grill (a stovetop cast iron thing that’s a bitch to take out and clean at the end of the night, but really gets the job done).

Served it with garlic bread and a salad. I can’t tell you how nice it is to have a light, springy seafood and greens meal after so much brisket etc.

Not everything I did this Passover was an epic failure. No, this year I also made something I never thought I could handle: the brisket.

Not just brisket, but the brisket. The lynchpin of the post-seder meal, a recipe that your grandma’s probably been perfecting since before your parents were born. It’s a lot of pressure, but I was confident I could do it after reading Alice Waters’ “Slow Food” essay in Da Capo’s Best Food Writing 2008 (I believe the esssay also appears in her Art of Simple Food book). “Nothing creates a sense of well-being like a barely simmering braise or stew cooking quietly on the stove or in the oven,” Waters writes. I called Aunt Susan to see if I would be trusted with the task–after all, I’d have to make this recipe for the project eventually, right?

It wasn’t until she said yes that it really hit me: I was making the brisket. Gefilte fish, that’s manageable, no one likes that stuff anyway. Worst comes to worst we eat from the jar. But the brisket cannot be messed with. Then again, there’s something fun about having a slab of meat (there were actually two of these) this huge in your kitchen:

The most important thing, from what I’m told, is to find a good cut of brisket, where “good” means fatty. Anyway, Bittman’s recipe in How to Cook Everything is, of course, pretty simple. Takes about three hours to cook, but there’s not a whole lot going on, and barely even any prep work. I added carrots where he says just onions, but other than that I followed it pretty much exactly, and it came out great.

You brown the meat on both sides. Then you pour off the fat, and throw in the onions (and carrots, in my case). Let those soften and then throw in some minced garlic and tomato paste.

Stir, return the meat to the pan, and then add stock, to almost cover the meat. Cover, stick it in the oven (300 degrees) and let it go for about 2 1/2 hours, turning it over every 30 minutes or so.

And it works. The slow cooking really breaks down the connective tissue and fat in the meat and makes it really tender as it cooks. It’s a bit disconcerting, because the meat definitely got really tough about 90 minutes into cooking, but then it came back around to tenderness by the three hour mark (it took more than 2 1/2 hours).

I let it rest, sliced it, and it was ready to go. Everyone at the seder seemed to enjoy it (I swear even my vegetarian cousins were eating the stuff), and I must say that it was even better as leftovers. A few days sitting in its own gravy works wonders, truly.