Ben Cooks Everything

“Don’t learn to make gefilte fish,” Grandma Ruth told me when she heard of my plans. “It’s not worth it. Learn to make something that you’ll eat more than once a year.” Grandma’ always right, and this was no exception, as it turned out. But still, I had to do it! For the project!

You know, I never really liked gefilte fish. At this moment, though, I truly hate it. This week I finally hit my first true, flat-out, nothing doing, face down failure of the project. Sure, there have been some things that didn’t come out perfect so far, but nothing that took up hours of time and more money than I’d like to admit only to leave me with nothing usable. Other than some fish stock, which I guess counts for something.

Let’s start at the start. I took the day off for Passover, as my parents were hosting the seder at their place on Thursday and it seemed like as good a time as any to take a crack at How to Cook Everything‘s recipe for Gefilte Fish, definitely an all day affair. Now, for the uninitiated out there, gefilte fish is a processed fish that you eat at passover seders. It tastes pretty much exactly how it looks, mild and benign and a little weird, but sort of familiar and nice at the same time. It was never my favorite thing in the world, but once a year I eat half a piece and call it a day. It never actually occurred to me until I saw it in HTCE that you might think of making it from scratch.

The main ingredient here is 3 lbs. of whitefish fillets (carp or pike will do as well) and 3 lbs. of scraps (head, skeletons, etc.). You put the scraps in a pot with celery, bay leaf, peppercorns, and an onion and essentially make a stock from it. Then you take the fillets, throw ’em in the food processor with another onion, chop it up together pretty fine, add some eggs and matzoh meal, and form egg shaped balls out of this mixture. You put those in the pot with the stock and scraps and about 3 cups of carrots, and let these balls cook for about an hour and a half. Gross, right? But I bet it tastes pretty good all in all, despite the fact that 90 minutes seems like a terribly long time to cook fish. Who am I to argue with tradition, though.

So, around 10 in the morning I went the Whole Foods Theme Park, a.k.a. Whole Foods Bowery (seriously that place is unreal). The fish guy there was incredibly helpful in helping me pick out a couple whitefish, which he then filleted, skinned, and left me with the scraps in addition to the fillets. Boondoggle number one occurred when I left with just the fillets but no scraps. OK, so, cab ride back to the Bowery and then another cab home with scraps in hand (I was in a bit of a time crunch). So those go into the pot, and I turn my attention to making the fish/onion mixture. Oh, what’s this! It’s hundreds of pin bones still in the fillets. Trying to get them out was frustrating, I don’t think I had the right tools and I’m not really very experienced with these things.

Alright, I’ve already been in three cabs today, what’s the hurt in two more? So, back out to Whole Foods (this time the Union Square one).

“Do you have whitefish fillets? Boneless? I really need them without bones.”
“Yes.”
“Okay, great, I’ll take three pounds. Can you take the skin off?”
“Sure.”
“Awesome. And you’re sure there’s no bones?”
“Yes.”
“Great. I’ll take it.”

I don’t want to tell you how much I paid for those three pounds of boneless skinless filets, but suffice it to say it was in keeping with the usual Whole Foods range. So imagine my surprise when I got home to find even more pin bones than in the first batch of fillets! And for what it’s worth, he also left on a fair amount of the skin. Way to half ass it, Whole Foods Union Square! It wasn’t even crowded; I was the only customer at the fish counter at the time.

That’s it. End of story. Pretty anticlimactic, I know. I do have a few quarts of delicious fish stock to show for my troubles, and I did think it was kind of fun preparing that fish head for the pot. I’ll have to work with whole fish more often. That’s a plus, one more thing I’m feeling confident about in the kitchen. Thanks for nothing, Whole Foods. You’re gonna have a really angry guy returning a lot of fish fillets tomorrow morning, FYI.

Next year, in Jerusalem! Or at least in NYC, with homemade gefilte fish. You gotta be reasonable, know what I mean?

Sausage with Peppers and Onions is one of my favorite combinations of all time. It works on pasta, it works on a crusty roll, it works all by itself, with a nice salad, really anywhere you see a sausage with some peppers and onions, you’re in for something delicious. Check it:

I decided to serve this with polenta, at the recomendation of one of How to Cook Everything‘s lists (I think it was “Dishes to Serve with Polenta” or something to that effect). To keep things interesting, I used the Polenta Gratin variation instead of the standard Polenta recipe. Basically, instead of mixing in the parmesan cheese at the end of cooking, you spread the polenta out on a baking sheet and sprinkle the top with cheese, then throw it in the broiler till it browns and gets a bit of a crispy layer on top. This tasted good, but all in all the crispiness wasn’t enough to truly set it apart from regular polenta; next time I think I’d skip this extra step and just plop the polenta down on the plate once it’s done.

Bittman’s method for cooking the peppers and onions is interesting, and leaves you with really tasty, dark brown caramelized onions, which I’ve never before been able to achieve with straight up sateeing. What you do is this: slice the onion, lay it out in the pan without any oil or anything, and turn the heat on. Let it cook, covered and undisturbed, for about 10 minutes or so until they’re starting to get some color and dry out a bit. Then it’s safe to add some oil and start moving them around a bit. They shouldn’t stick; if they do, I think they need more time. At this point, add the peppers, and cook until everything’s soft to your liking. I let mine go for a long time, because in my book, the browner the better. Here they are maybe halfway there, when they were still very pretty but not nearly tasty enough.

Alright, so then you set aside the veggies and cook the sausages in the same pan. Once they’re done, plate it up, and you’re good to go. If I weren’t so lazy I’d serve this with a salad. Maybe next time.

I think I made the best tomato sauce I’ve ever made, for the project or otherwise, last week. That it wasn’t the exact recipe from How to Cook Everything matters little.

On p. 502 of HTCE is Fast Tomato Sauce, with or without Pasta. But on p. 503 is where the recipe vaults into greatness. “20 Quick and Easy Ways to Spin Fast Tomato Sauce” is the real reason this is so great. Basically, it’s two pages of stuff you can throw in to the sauce at various stages, turning it into a fast puttanesca, tomato pesto, roasted tomato sauce, whatever. But what I think Bittman is really saying, not to put words in the man’s mouth, is that you should add whatever the hell you want to this tomato sauce. I know I’ve talked about it a lot before, but it’s a classic template and pretty much anything goes, as long as it tastes good to you.

Anyway, last week I started with leeks in addition to the usual onions, and threw in some cut up red and yellow peppers. Once those were nice and soft I added a big can of tomatoes, let it heat up a bit, and then a few tablespoons of tomato paste went in. It started to bubble together, smell great, thicken up a bit, at which point I pureed it in the food processor. I like doing this for two reasons. The main reason is that I prefer a really smooth tomato sauce on pasta, and I’m not crazy about chunks in my tomato sauce. If I were doing this without pasta, I probably wouldn’t puree it. The second reason is that you can really half-ass the chopping if you know everything’s gonna go in the food processor later on.

Alright, so it was a lot more vibrant and colorful all chunky like that, and I think if I were doing this without pasta, I’d leave it be. Anyway, after it was pureed I threw in these garlicky olives I had roughly chopped (this was the only garlic I added) and a little more olive oil. Ate it over pasta, which you might’ve guessed.

My only regret is that I didn’t make more…

I always thought home fries would be more difficult to make; I’m not really sure why. Turns out, it’s super easy.

You take a couple pounds of waxy potatoes (I halved it and just used a pound). You can peel them, but it’s not necessary (I like them skin-on anyway, so it’s a non-issue). Put some neutral oil in your pan, and when it’s hot, add the potatoes and DO NOT MESS WITH THEM for ten minutes, until they start to darken and they release easily. If you try to move them too soon, they will stick. Trust me, but more importantly, trust Bittman.

After the ten minutes or so, just stir occasionally til you think they’re done (depends how you like it, I guess, but I like mine pretty well done so it took another 15 minutes or so). Towards the end, Bittman says to turn the heat up a bit more to give them a little more crispness, which works nicely. Don’t forget to salt them while they’re still hot. I drained them out a bit on some paper towels and then made eggs in the oil still left in the pan.

This egg isn’t a recipe from How to Cook Everything, but it looks delicious in this picture, doesn’t it?

Take some miso paste. Add it to water, hot but not boiling. Let it dissolve into the water, throw in some tofu, scallions, whatever you want, really.

Seriously, that’s it. No wonder they give this stuff out for free at Japanese restaurants.

So, Quick Braised Whole Fish with Black Bean Sauce. I’ve never cooked a whole fish before, and Tuesday night at 7 didn’t seem like a good time to start practicing my fish cleaning skills.

Luckily our man Bittman provides a super quick variation with filets instead of whole fish. The whole thing is very easy, but I bet it would be a lot more full flavored with a whole fish. Basically you lightly batter and fry the fish in neutral oil just to brown it. Then you remove it from the pan, add some onions, garlic, Ginger and scallions. You let those all cook until the onions are pretty soft, then add some chopped onions (I used canned, which worked nicely) and fermented black beans that have been soaking in rice wine or dry sherry. Cook that all together a while and then return the fish to the pan to finish cooking for another five minutes or so.

Served it with plain rice and some salad. It’s not the dark, gummy black bean sauce you’re probably thinking of from chinese restaurants. This is something a little lighter, with a good amount of veggies. The only thing I wasn’t crazy about was the batter on the fish, which after being braised turned into something almost like a paste–maybe I didn’t fry it at high enough heat, I don’t know, but I think the next time I’d skip the batter altogether and see how that works out.

Also, I now have a huge package of fermented black beans. Anyone have any suggestions on how to use them?

Who’s that climbing the NYTimes’ Most E-Mailed list? It’s our man Bittman, reminding us that what matters is what you eat, not how it’s labeled or marketed in this Sunday’s Week in Review section. Definitely worth a read.

Eating Food That’s Better For You, Organic or Not [nytimes]

So, as Bittman alludes to in his intro to this recipe, it’s a bit bland. You definitely need a dipping sauce or three to rescue it. It’s easy, though, and it left me with a ton of leftovers, including some stock. Also, it’s really cheap since you can use a whole chicken, although I guess some people would rather use just breasts. If that’s the case, I implore you, go bone-in. I think this would be really bland and dried out without the bone, since the stock probably wouldnt pick up all that much flavor from just plain breast meat.

All you do is boil water with some salt, ginger, and garlic, add chicken, cover and turn off the heat after 10 minutes and let it sit for an hour. This keeps it pretty moist and tender. Then you cook rice with the stock, and serve it with the chicken and Ginger Scallion sauce for dipping. It’s nice and light, lets the chicken flaunt its poultriness, and tastes pretty good. Also, there was this whole thing in the recipe about tomatoes and cucumbers, but I didn’t have any of those around, so I skipped it. Maybe the recipe would’ve been a bit more remarkable had I included it, but I mean, what are the odds of that?

I think next time I would slice up the chicken before serving, which would make it look a bit less sloppy, but other than that, this is a pretty good, pretty easy (if a bit time consuming) one pot dish. We made it with the How to Cook Everything recipe for dandelion greens (we substituted mustard greens), which was good, even though Talia oversalted it. Clownshoe.

There were pictures of this, but really, they didn’t make it look very tasty, so they aren’t getting posted here. It was worse than the Chicken with Yogurt debacle.

Sunday was the one week anniversary of my least favorite brother Jonathan’s 26th birthday. In honor of this occasion, I told him I’d make him and his friends whatever he wanted (so long as it was in How To Cook Everything, of course). So that’s how we ended up with Paella, a deceptively easy dish that takes much less time than everyone thinks. Since it was a special occasion, I replaced half the shrimp with squid and added some chorizo to the recipe for good measure. Check it out:

Basically, it works like this: saute some onions in olive oil, add chorizo if you’re using it, and then add the rice (preferably paella rice, though I used arborio at Bittman’s suggestion and it worked) and cook it for a minute until it looks “shiny.” At this point you add the stock that’s been heating up with saffron in it (if you’re me, you add the saffron with the rice instead of letting it heat with the broth, resulting in a still very tasty but less orange dish), stir in the shrimp and squid, and throw it in a 450 degree oven for 15 minutes.

It actually took more like 30 minutes, but my oven is trife). When the rice is cooked through and the top is getting a nice brown layer, you’re good. This was completely delicious and the chorizo was predictably a great call.

For veggies, we had two dishes. Roasted Asparagus is something I’ve made 100 times before, and it turns out is also in HTCE. I burnt them a little. They were still good, in fact I think they were better than usual. That’s one veggie that does real well under high heat. I think next time I may even try the broiler (the recipe was for Grilled, Broiled, or Roasted Asparagus so there’s a lot of room for interpretation as long as the heat is high).

But that was overshadowed, I’m afraid. It’s not that it wasn’t good (which it was) and it’s not that I forgot the lemon wedges Bittman recommends (which I did). It’s just that the other vegetable dish last night had bacon in it. So you see, it wasn’t really fair. Seared Baby Bok Choy with Bacon Vinaigrette is simpy unfuckwithable, and not just because of the bacon. You boil and shock baby bok choy, cut it in half, and then cook it cut side down, so it gets just a bit charred.

It’s a really interesting flavor, one I didn’t think would work at all, but oh how it did. The bacon vinaigrette is just, you cook some chopped up bacon (about 6 oz, I used less) deglaze with some sherry vinegar, salt and pepper, and then whisk in some olive oil. Pour that on top of the baby bok choy and you have a serious side dish. For those of you who don’t like to cook with bacon, there’s an alternate recipe with a chili vinaigrette that also looks killer.

I served it all with a salad, not from the book. Our guests were Sean, Eva, and Mike, who it should be noted really loves a good, creamy rice and a cool, icy glass of red wine. I expect all of your comments below. Diana, you need to try harder. Happy Birthday big guy.

Oh! And for dessert I broiled some nectarines. The were so SO good. They didn’t even need the ice cream, though it certainly didn’t hurt.

One thing that’s so great about roasting or grilling fruit is that it doesn’t even have to be that great quality fruit. The nectarines were hard as rocks going in, but in the broiler they became these super sweet, sorta tart warm soft charred flavor bombs. I think it was Sean who said it was like pie, without the pie. Awesome.

(just kidding Diana, I owe you one, hope you’re feeling better)

Today Bittman took his spiel to the Today show to do a recipe very near and dear to my own heart: Fast Tomato Sauce, that endlessly variable recipe that was a key reason I started the Ben Cooks Everything project in the first place. He didn’t call it Fast Tomato Sauce, but that’s exactly what it was, complete with the toss-in-anything-you-like attitude. Matt and Meredith keep the obnoxious to a minimum, which is nice. And! Bittman says you can throw in the rind of parmesan cheese when making sauce and get a lot of flavor from that otherwise garbage-bound ingredient. Awesome.

Meanwhile, the Minimalist column in today’s paper, which went online last week, is all about making mashed potatoes a little healthier and a little more interesting. Boil potatoes, add dandelion greens, olive oil (interesting substitution for the butter that I’ve got to try).

Both these recipes use a similar concept of using a lot of veggies (tomato sauce, dandelion greens), and a lot less starch than you usually would (pasta, potatoes). Mark Bittman: waning you off carbs. That being said, both of these (especially the mash) look tasty as hell. Are dandelion greens in season yet? I guess so.

As always, the NYTimes video is better, more informative, easier on the eyes, and with 100% less cheery morning talk show hosts. It is not, however, embeddable, so please enjoy below the Today show clip and click here or below to see the Times video.

Green Potatoes from Liguria [nytimes video]
The Minimalist: The Greening of Mashed Potatoes [nytimes]